Ok I’ll admit it – I’m not a surfer. I’ve tried it before, but like many things didn’t pursue it because I wasn’t great at it right away. And more importantly, it was cold, I don’t like early mornings, and it takes too much effort to get good enough to enjoy the ride.
And this was during the summer in England. With a wetsuit.
THIS is surfing in the Arctic, at sub-zero minus-eight temperatures – bitterly cold seas, driving winds and importantly some pretty wild waves. But more importantly, a desire to overcome the traumatic effect these conditions have on the mind and body and come out the other side with the same euphoric sense of freedom and accomplishment that drives hardcore surfers to the next challenge (so I’ve heard).
It’s a jaw-dropping video, and even if you have no interest at all in surfing or any of the aforementioned hippy vibes, you need to watch it for the visuals alone.